We have meticulously planned a motorcycle tour for quite some time, and with our business and personal obligations considered, we determined that a trip longer than three days was not feasible. Given that constraint, Montenegro emerged as the perfect destination—close enough and captivating enough to warrant our motorbikes heading south. We decided on October for our journey, deliberately avoiding the sweltering summer heat. Montenegro’s appeal lies in its stunning landscapes, reminiscent of the breathtaking scenery in Croatia. With its beautiful nature, canyons, and winding serpentines, it is an ideal location for motorcycle enthusiasts. We embarked on our motorcycle tour from Split (Croatia) with four of our bikes: BMW R1250 GS, BMW R1200RT, BMW R1200GS, and BMW K1600GTL. This adventure was not just a trip; it was a pursuit of the exhilarating experience we sought.
Durmitor National Park – motorbike tour
DAY 1 – Motorbike adventure starts
We were eager for our motorcycle adventure to begin. We looked forward to the sights we would encounter, the people we would meet, and the thrilling experiences that awaited us.
After meeting up in Split in front of our rental office and after a short coffee and some laughs, we decided to go. The plan was to ride to Montenegro via Bosnia and Herzegovina, so we headed from Split to Blato na Cetini following Šestanovac, Zagvozd, and Vrgorac to reach Ljubuški, more precisely, Studenac Ljubuški, where we made our first break since the famous Kravica waterfalls are located there.
Kravice is a protected area featuring a 28-meter waterfall with a swimmable amphitheater beneath it. This region was once known for its active mills. We drove on the Bosnian state road from Ljubuški towards Čapljina, looking for the small village of Stolac. A local recommended the best burek under the “sač,” so we visited “Bakery Dalija” and enjoyed it. Despite it being September, it was quite hot, so we wore light motorcycle jackets. To cool off, we swam in the Bregava River, which eventually flows into the Adriatic Sea. After our swim, we stopped for coffee brewed on an old stove before heading to our next destination—Sutjeska and Tjetnište peak.
I always aim for at least one climb on the route. Winding roads and serpentines make me thrill, and this place is so perfect for it. Tjetnište is a part of the Sutjeska National Park, and it is something that everyone should experience. My BMW R1250 GS finally cuts the bends, even though we are descending to Gack, so we decide to spend the night in Foča, where we find accommodation. Journey makes places like this, great food, and the service is more than pleasant and home-made.
We slept in the rooms while the motorbikes were parked in front of the apartment, and quite safe. “Antique” together with apartments also offer gazebos along the river Drina. We paid exactly 50 euros for a night for two, dinner, and a drink.
DAY 2 – Motorbike touring on the most incredible Durmitor roads
We decided that our Motorbike tour would head along the Tara River to the border crossing with Montenegro, and we chose Plužine for the crossing. We go back to the hills and climb along Piva Lake to Durmitor.
In Bosnia, we deliberately choose state roads, but in Montenegro, we go into the mountain part, which is quite different. As experienced drivers, we don’t go anywhere without quality GPS, which helped us here as well. So, we drive on a normal paved road that suddenly becomes macadam, which then narrows into almost a field road. Nothing out of the ordinary, but if it weren’t for the GPS, those few times, I think we would be getting lost. As for the quality of roads, I can say that the roads in Montenegro are better maintained. My thoughts quickly returned to the beautiful nature that surrounded us. This part of the route is the most similar to an ideal moto touring that is often pursued. We rode on small roads with no traffic, which was ideal for our enjoyment.
The crowd increases with the proximity to the bridge on Tara. The bridge on Đurđevića Tara itself is a tourist bridge architectural attraction. 365 meters long, the bridge was built back in 1940. And at that time it was the largest bridge in this part of Europe. Montenegrins tell him that he is certainly one of the most beautiful in the world. What sets this object apart is the landscape and its possibilities. Also nearby are restaurants and rafting activities to whom this river is known.
Since we are not some rafters, we are more excited about octane, we went to the eco-village Durmitor “Trsa”. Although here nature is beautiful, wild horses can often be seen, what surprised us was the “beer from the snow”.
The team offers beer chilled directly in the snow all summer and autumn.
After a cool beer, we go across the mount pass to Žabljak where we spend the night and get ready for the last day. This area is truly perfect for motorcycle touring.
DAY 3 – Full with joy returning home!
The bridge on Tara thrilled us so much that we had to go back one more time. Maybe rafting is not our choice, nevertheless, the zip line is. They say this line is one of the best in Europe. Certainly what makes it special is the geographical feature of the canyon itself, which is 1333 meters deep, that fact makes it the deepest in Europe and second in the world, right after the Grand Canyon on the Colorado River. Ideal for zip line experience.
After this adrenaline bomb, we drank coffee by the bridge and headed towards the city of Nikšić. It was about to return home.
Through the border crossing Ilino Brdo we enter Bosnia and Herzegovina again where we drive to Trebinje. Time leads our moto group through smaller villages and hamlets. Before entering Trebinje, I expected a mediocre town, but with its about 30 thousand inhabitants of Trebinje is something more to explore. A beautiful village near the river Trebišnjica. It has reportedly been inhabited since the Paleolithic.
From Trebinje over the M20 to the border crossing Ivanica our motorcycle tour leads us to Dubrovnik a gorgeous medieval Croatian city. At the very end, full of joy returning home on the highway from Dubrovnik to Split.
Full of impressions, we return home and hope to have the opportunity for another motorcycle tour soon.
We experienced so many surprises on this Croatia & Montenegro moto tour, from hidden gems, great local food to the most incredible roads and nature. Hope that you will try to ride alone and explore with your own motorbike or if it’s more convenient you can rent a motorcycle from our company in Split. Whatever you decide we are more than happy to help you!
If you prefer planned guided motorcycle tours throughout Croatia and Balkan countries, we can offer a full package with our affiliated company Balkan Moto Tours.
Feel free to contact us!
